The Buddhist Traveler in Tokyo

Tokyo, for all its contemporary glitz and pop culture, remains a distinctly Buddhist destination. A glance at Google Maps reveals thousands of manji, the left-facing swastika dharma symbol denoting temple sites. Many residents culturally identify as Buddhists and participate in life-marking celebrations, particularly New Year’s festivities and funerary rites. Today, travelers to Tokyo can experience a wide range of intriguing Buddhist attractions, from Edo-era mausoleums to cute cat temples and bars run by monks. Instead of getting jostled by the ever-growing crowds at Senso-ji and other popular landmarks, trace the history of Japanese Buddhism through these lesser-trodden paths. 

1| Fukagawa Fudou-do 

Fukagawa Fudou-do could be described as the city’s most “heavy metal” temple. It’s dedicated to the scowling Shingon Buddhist deity Fudo Myo-o, the “Immovable One,” who raises his sword against ignorance and stomps out evil spirits to liberate beings from suffering. Wind your way through a trippy prayer corridor lined with 10,000 crystal figures of this fierce Wisdom King. Then, witness one of several live goma (fire purification) rituals that take place throughout the day. Be prepared for sensory overload: The monks pound on taiko drums and chant gutturally as they burn wooden wishing sticks over giant blasts of flames.

2| Vowz Bar

Oddball theme bars are big in Japan, and Vowz takes the trend to a spiritual level. The small dive is run by Buddhist bozu (monks), mostly from the Jodo Shinshu school. A butsudan altar sits next to shelves of liquor bottles, and the quiet, calligraphy-filled space feels more like a meditation room than a nightclub. Robed monks deliver short sermons and chants while mixing cocktails with names like “Eternal Hell” (a vodka-cranberry-raspberry drink with a color that evokes the bloody torments of the Buddhist underworld). In line with the lay accessibility of Pure Land Buddhism, Vowz Bar shows that compassion and wisdom can be expressed over a strong drink.

3| Kokoku-ji

Kokoku-ji appears to be an unassuming temple on the outskirts of Tokyo until you walk into its Ruriden columbarium, or structure for funerary urns. Suddenly, it feels as if you’re in the cyberpunk anime Ghost in the Shell: This “digital cemetery” has tall neon walls glistening with 2,046 glass Buddhas. Each meditating figure sits in front of a locker containing the ashes of the deceased. Using a smart IC card, relatives can unlock an ancestor’s compartment and light up their Buddha with dancing rainbow LED lights. Through innovative tech, Ruriden lets families maintain the Buddhist tradition of caring for graves while saving space in a crowded metropolis. 

4| Daigo 

Shojin ryori is the centuries-old tradition of Japanese Buddhist cuisine, which focuses on meatless ingredients like seasonal vegetables and grains prepared with gratitude and minimal waste. Daigo earned a Michelin star for adapting shojin ryori from monastic kitchens to fine dining rooms. Guests enter a serene space with tatami mats and views of the adjoining Zen sand garden. Before eating, they are invited to do a short five-point mindfulness reflection called gokan no ge. Daigo’s set menu changes with the seasons and might include creative gastronomic spins on pumpkin tempura and yuba, or tofu skin.

5| Gotoku-ji 

Gotoku-ji is known as the birthplace of the maneki neko, or “lucky beckoning cat.” According to Japanese legend, a lord was saved from a thunderstorm by a cat that raised his paw and led him to this Soto Zen temple. Ever since, visitors have left thousands of maneki neko statues of all sizes around the courtyard. Those looking for a souvenir to take home can purchase a wood plaque or ceramic of the waving white cat. Gotoku-ji is a one-of-a-kind temple that blends Zen Buddhism with folktales while leaning into Japan’s love of “kawaii” cuteness and cats. 

6| Nezu Museum 

Nezu Museum’s private collection of premodern Asian art includes a fine selection of Buddhist works, which are beautifully spotlighted by Kengo Kuma’s minimalist nature-inspired architecture. The main hall welcomes visitors with a “reception line” of Buddha and bodhisattva statues, including a standing Maitreya from 3rd-century Central Asia and an eleven-headed Chinese Guanyin from the 7th century. Kuma’s dramatic pitched roof and long glass wall, which lets in light from the garden, add to the otherworldly vibe of the museum. Nezu’s rotating exhibitions, such as of Korean Koryo dynasty paintings, extend to the lush outdoor area where stone Shakyamunis sit by a koi pond and teahouse. 

7| Zojo-ji

Founded in 1393, Zojo-ji became the family temple for the Tokugawa shoguns, who ruled the capital (then known as Edo) from 1603 to 1868. Although many travelers come to see the mausoleum where six of these rulers were buried, Zojo-ji is best known today for its “Garden of Unborn Children.” Roughly 1,000 small stone Buddhist statues stand in rows, lovingly dressed in knit red hats and bibs. They depict the bodhisattva Jizo, protector of children that were lost before birth or died young. Visitors tie colorful cloths around the statues and leave toys and pinwheels as offerings, honoring the memory of the young departed.